Walking through northern Laos

Written by Stephanie Choate

The town of Luang Nam Tha in northern Laos is perched along the fringes of Nam Ha National Protected Area—2,224 square kilometers of rolling jungle-clad mountains. Many companies offer guided treks through the jungle, and though we had avoided the more popular trekking scene in Thailand, we wanted to get further into this amazingly beautiful countryside.

Mist fills the valleys of Nam Ha National Protected Area.

The three-day more challenging trek took us across about 25 kilometers of jungle. Four guides came with us and three other trekkers—two guys from England and another from Sweden.

Banmi, our exuberant 24-year-old lead guide, kept us thoroughly entertained with hilarious exclamations and questions about whether we had certain plants and animals in our countries. This was his last trek before getting married next week, and he often referred to “my darling.” Gang, one of the founders of the company, has been leading treks for 10 years, and was quick to find edible plants, hack down low-hanging branches and give beaming smiles. Kahm, one of the local villagers, was extremely curious in what we were doing and his wife, Pung, probably carried more weight slung across her forehead than anyone else. (Sidenote: I have no idea how they would spell their names, this is my best guess!)

Banmi (red jacket) and Gang (orange jacket) purchase our food at the morning market.

The trail started at Kahm’s and Pung’s Khmu village, passing shy children, countless chickens, and vibrant green rice fields before entering the forest.

Rice field

We hiked for about six hours each day, up and down hills, across fallen logs, through dense patches of vines. Throughout the three days, we caught glimpses of Nam Ha’s rolling blue-green hills through the dense jungle branches. Ignoring the foreground, the layers of faraway mountains looked remarkably like Vermont, or perhaps somewhere in the southern Appalachians. It was a bit surreal to see a small slice of home on the other side of the world.

Far from the basic hiking fare we had expected, every meal brought an elaborate spread of tasty Lao dishes, arranged across a banana leaf table. We dipped small balls of sticky rice into fried young morning glory, garlicky tomatoes, mixed vegetables infused with ginger, eggplant and chilies, and buffalo meat bought from the morning market. In particular, dinner on the second night consisted mostly of food our guides had collected as we hiked through the jungle—banana flower, young ferns, bitter eggplant, greens. Everything was delicious, and not just because we had been hiking for hours!

A stop for lunch.

After a full day’s walk on the second day, we reached camp in a small valley next to a river, and everyone enjoyed a much-needed swim. At night, we all sat by the campfire after the guides, who rose and slept with the sun, had gone to bed. The full moon crept above the forest and illuminated the camp, almost eliminating the need for a flashlight.

Early the next morning, mist filled the valley and shrouded the mountains, until the sun cleared the tallest peaks and melted it all away. Soon, the sun blazed down on us as we made our way through a more open section near the end of the trail. We followed the river, crossing it in our flip-flops again and again.

Looking back towards camp on the last day.

The trek finished at a village on banks of the wide and deep Nam Tha (meaning Green River). Our bags were ferried across while we swam— very welcome after the long, hot third day. Nearly a dozen village kids swam too, barreling down the hill and leaping into the river as recklessly as they could, with plenty of yelling.

Everyone enjoying a swim in the Nam Tha.

Aside from three leeches (me, gross), two ticks (me as well), an incident with a bare foot and a huge, fresh buffalo patty (Banmi), and some very sore legs, the trek was a definite success.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Trek Nam Ha Forest Camps, Luang Namtha tour.This trek is entirely within the Nam Ha National Protected Area, an ASEAN Heritage Site. The 3 days trek is entirely in the forest. This is a trip for those who want a true forest experience. The villagers of a Khmu village will host us at our first forest camp deep in the forest. At the second camp Akha villagers will be your hosts. The camps, built out of bamboo and wood by the villagers themselves, are places to immerse oneself in the beauty of the jungle. Along the way, local Khmu and Akha guides will explain the forest products used by villagers for food, medicine, materials and religious ceremonies. Rise early on the third day for the sunrise and go with an Akha bird caller to learn how the Akha can call wild birds in.

Trekking in Laos, the Forgotten Land

Leaving behind overwhelming and often brusque China, we were delighted to find pure, green, untouched Laos awaiting us.

Laos is a forgotten land. Like most, I didn’t know much about it before setting foot in the country. I knew it was at one time French occupied and that it usually earns a fleeting spot on many Southeast Asia travelers’ itineraries.

I could tell, however, within the first moments of entering the country that is was a special place that would soon earn a top spot on my list.

Bamboo Hut, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

On the drive from the border I was awestruck by the natural beauty of the country. Lush forests blanket rolling hills dotted with stilted bamboo huts. Thick jungles tower over muddy rivers where hill tribe villagers call home. Pools of water reflect a vibrant blue sky in endless fields of palm-fringed rice paddies.

Dubbed the “Jewel of the Mekong,” we were soon discovering Laos was in fact one of the great jewels of Asia. Our first stop in Luang Nam Tha confirmed the notion.

Luang Nam Tha is a small town based at the foothills of the jungle-covered mountains. It’s considered the most ethnically diverse area in all of Laos based on the countless number of ethnic minorities inhabiting the surrounding mountains.

The combination of a privileged geographic location and strong ties to its tribal heritage has helped Luang Nam Tha become the ecotourism destination of the country.

The whole town is set along one paved road. It has a nice selection of cafes and restaurants to choose from as well as a lively night market serving up some of Laos’ spicy favorites.

It was here we were introduced to the laid-back SE Asia vibe, discovered the gentle, innocent charm of the Laos people and celebrated the fact that some French traditions – strong coffee and fresh baguettes – still live on.

Village Scene, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

The real adventure of Luang Nam Tha, however, lies along the paths in the hills beyond. We embarked on a one day, guided trek through the mountains. Our day began on the back of tuk-tuk (the name given to rickshaws all over Asia due to the sound of their churning motors), which dropped us off at a village along a river.

From here we met our guide and other members of our group – an Israeli and two Japanese guys. We crossed the river in a small boat and were then lead straight up the mountain.

The trek was certainly intense and gave me new-found admiration for the soldiers who fought in similar topography, not far from here, in the Vietnam War. Words can’t describe how thick and dense these jungles are.

Vines, branches, prickly leaves, monster-size ants and all kinds of creepy crawlers cover your body the moment you enter the jungle. The heat is stifling. It’s so dense you don’t know where to plant your feet and when you do the mountains are so steep you find yourself falling down more than standing up.

Buffalo Meat Lunch, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

At the top of the mountain it was time to reward ourselves. Here our guide prepared a feast. On the floor of the jungle, he built a fire to cook pieces of buffalo meat attached to bamboo sticks he’d picked up along the way.

On the dirt floor, he laid out a palm leaf to serve as our lunch table. He put out eggs and bean sprouts and spread dollops of green chili paste on the green palm leaf. When the meat was ready it was time to chow. He handed out what looked like tightly-wrapped presents, but what turned out to be sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. We were told to open them up, use our hands and dig in. It was a true jungle experience.

With our tummies full of tough buffalo meat and spicy chilies, we made our way down the mountain to the river’s edge. Here we came upon a group of village children taking their daily bath in the river. As the sun began to set, we too dunked ourselves in for a swim. It was an idyllic way to end a memorable day in the pristine, feral jungle.

Source: roundwego
Recommended tour:
Trek Ban Nam Lai Village, Luang Namtha
Challenging Trek Nam Ha, Luang Namtha