The Laos motorcycle diaries

Writen by Richard Waters

Reclining Buddha at monastery in Vientiane

Landlocked Laos, fortressed by mountains and dissected by the mighty Mekong River, is best travelled by road; its dramatic routes twisting sinuously through jungle, paddy fields, mountains and karst country.

Normally seen from one of the country’s wheezing buses, there is an exciting alternative for those eager to drive through Laos’ stunning panoramas. Over the last 10 years – in a voracious desire to create speedy supply routes to trade neighbours Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand – China has invested heavily in widening and sealing the Laos’ roads. This, combined with affordable satellite navigation technology, has made the country a new favourite for amateur motorcyclists. After all, wouldn’t you rather be the architect of your journey with the wind on your face, than stuck in the back of a decrepit bus beside a cage of bats?

In 1975, after the Vietnam War and parallel Laotian Civil War, the communist country slammed its doors to the outside world until 1991, meaning that Laos has had far less exposure to the West than some of its neighbours. Beyond its main cities – Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Savannakhet – four-fifths of the population live off the land, including its more than 100 ethnic tribes; and the country is still thickly carpeted in forest that harbours tigers and leopards. To best explore this mysterious world, hire a speedy motorbike to tackle the rough trails and mountain roads. You can arrange to have your bags forwarded to your destination and even drop the bike off at the end to avoid doubling back on yourself.

Start your journey in the languid capital of Vientiane, where The Midnight Mapper (ask for Don Duvall) hires handheld Garmin GPS devices to help you safely find your route in the most remote of Laos’ backwaters. If you already have a device, an excellent digital GPS map is also available via sim card. Thanks to Duvall’s slavish obsession to detail – taking 10 years to map every corner of the country – the possibility of getting lost in the jungle is now nearly impossible.

  

Laos is a new favourite for amateur motorcyclists

Before you leave Vientiane, spend a few days soaking up its French restaurants, bakeries and spas, before heading to Jules Classic Rental, a Western-run outfit in the centre of the old town. They have well-maintained heavy-duty dirt bikes for hire and a solid reputation to match.

From Vientiane it is an easy 340km ride south on Highway 13 to the pretty colonial town of Tha Khaek. The road is generally flat, with Thailand on your right across the Mekong River and dramatic jungle rearing up like a dragon-green tsunami to the east. Given that dusk comes around 6 pm, try to travel early, before the vampish dangers of night increase your chances of colliding with an errant water buffalo. Also many Lao lack bike lights, and dogs have a suicidal leaning to sleep in the centre of the road. An hour of this nocturnal Russian roulette will fray your nerves.

In Tha Khaek, stay at the delightful Inthira Hotel, the town’s only boutique accommodation. While this former colonial outpost is pretty enough with old French houses, Chinese merchants shops and locals playing pétanque under the tropical sun, its main purpose is as a base for travellers who come to tackle the jungle-rich, three-day, 500km odyssey known as the Loop; the highlight of which is the country’s most spectacular cave, Kong Lor.

Up until now, travellers attempting the Loop had to rely on unreliable narrow-wheeled scooters to take them over demanding terrain, from passing trucks throwing up thick dust to sheer mountain roads with gravel surfaces. Not surprisingly, fatalities occurred and casualties were myriad. 

Day one of the Loop heads 140km northeast from Th Khaek toward Vietnam, surging through lush jungle and along unsealed roads past lunar landscapes of flooded valleys. From there it rears west from the logging town of Lak Sao back into Khammouane Province. Lak Sao might not be much to look at, but you will be glad of its acceptable hotels, street food and ATMs to accommodate your first night.

Motorbike crossing in Vang Vieng

The second day sees better conditioned roads as you motor 100km west to Kong Lor Village through extraordinary karst country, the triple canopy rent  by forbidding charcoal-black cliffs, visible for miles around. Amid this surreal topography are lethally tight switchbacks that snake through clouds of fluorescent butterflies and past roadside tribal folk with antique guns slung over their shoulders. It is best to overnight in Kong Lor village and see the cave early the next morning, giving yourself plenty of time to ride back to Tha Khaek before it gets dark.

Less than 1km from Kong Lor Village, your first view of Kong Lor cave is that of a dark mouth leering at you from the base of a towering limestone mountain. From its ragged teeth flows the Kong River, which you have to board a stuttering longtail boat to navigate. With its stalactites and stalagmites twisting in the church-high darkness, Kong Lor cave looks like a backdrop from a Star Trek movie. As the river flows quick and dark through the heart of the mountain, it is just you, your feeble torch and the boatman, puttering into the Stygian gloom.

The trip through the cave takes about 40 minutes, the boat emerging mole-like into the sunshine where you stop by a small ban (village) for a cold drink. The relief is short-lived, however, as you have no choice but to return back the way you came. At 7.5km long, this eerie cave is surely one of Laos’ most unforgettable experiences.

After the cave, grab some lunch before travelling the last 180km of the Loop, back to your pressed linen sheets and rain shower at the Inthira Hotel.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Vietnam-Laos Adventures tour.Laos is the least populated of the Indochinese countries. The landscape is dominated by mountains, jungles and of course the Mekong River, which runs for 1800km along the western border of the country. A devoutly Buddhist nation, Laos has opened up to provide travellers with an opportunity to experience the diversity, tradition and natural beauty of the country. This trip offers adventurous travellers a great opportunity to discover the combined beauty of northern Vietnam and northern Laos.

Highlights :

• Sea kayaking in Halong Bay
• Trekking and home stay in Mai Chau and Pu Luong
• Plain of Jars in Xieng Khoang
• Ancient city of Luang Prabang
• River kayaking in Luang Prabang Area 

Trekking in Laos, the Forgotten Land

Leaving behind overwhelming and often brusque China, we were delighted to find pure, green, untouched Laos awaiting us.

Laos is a forgotten land. Like most, I didn’t know much about it before setting foot in the country. I knew it was at one time French occupied and that it usually earns a fleeting spot on many Southeast Asia travelers’ itineraries.

I could tell, however, within the first moments of entering the country that is was a special place that would soon earn a top spot on my list.

Bamboo Hut, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

On the drive from the border I was awestruck by the natural beauty of the country. Lush forests blanket rolling hills dotted with stilted bamboo huts. Thick jungles tower over muddy rivers where hill tribe villagers call home. Pools of water reflect a vibrant blue sky in endless fields of palm-fringed rice paddies.

Dubbed the “Jewel of the Mekong,” we were soon discovering Laos was in fact one of the great jewels of Asia. Our first stop in Luang Nam Tha confirmed the notion.

Luang Nam Tha is a small town based at the foothills of the jungle-covered mountains. It’s considered the most ethnically diverse area in all of Laos based on the countless number of ethnic minorities inhabiting the surrounding mountains.

The combination of a privileged geographic location and strong ties to its tribal heritage has helped Luang Nam Tha become the ecotourism destination of the country.

The whole town is set along one paved road. It has a nice selection of cafes and restaurants to choose from as well as a lively night market serving up some of Laos’ spicy favorites.

It was here we were introduced to the laid-back SE Asia vibe, discovered the gentle, innocent charm of the Laos people and celebrated the fact that some French traditions – strong coffee and fresh baguettes – still live on.

Village Scene, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

The real adventure of Luang Nam Tha, however, lies along the paths in the hills beyond. We embarked on a one day, guided trek through the mountains. Our day began on the back of tuk-tuk (the name given to rickshaws all over Asia due to the sound of their churning motors), which dropped us off at a village along a river.

From here we met our guide and other members of our group – an Israeli and two Japanese guys. We crossed the river in a small boat and were then lead straight up the mountain.

The trek was certainly intense and gave me new-found admiration for the soldiers who fought in similar topography, not far from here, in the Vietnam War. Words can’t describe how thick and dense these jungles are.

Vines, branches, prickly leaves, monster-size ants and all kinds of creepy crawlers cover your body the moment you enter the jungle. The heat is stifling. It’s so dense you don’t know where to plant your feet and when you do the mountains are so steep you find yourself falling down more than standing up.

Buffalo Meat Lunch, Luang Nam Tha, Laos

At the top of the mountain it was time to reward ourselves. Here our guide prepared a feast. On the floor of the jungle, he built a fire to cook pieces of buffalo meat attached to bamboo sticks he’d picked up along the way.

On the dirt floor, he laid out a palm leaf to serve as our lunch table. He put out eggs and bean sprouts and spread dollops of green chili paste on the green palm leaf. When the meat was ready it was time to chow. He handed out what looked like tightly-wrapped presents, but what turned out to be sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. We were told to open them up, use our hands and dig in. It was a true jungle experience.

With our tummies full of tough buffalo meat and spicy chilies, we made our way down the mountain to the river’s edge. Here we came upon a group of village children taking their daily bath in the river. As the sun began to set, we too dunked ourselves in for a swim. It was an idyllic way to end a memorable day in the pristine, feral jungle.

Source: roundwego
Recommended tour:
Trek Ban Nam Lai Village, Luang Namtha
Challenging Trek Nam Ha, Luang Namtha

Travel Tips and advice from Active Travel Laos

After years of war and isolation, Southeast Asia’s most pristine environment, intact cultures and quite possibly the most chilled – out people on earth mean destination Laos is fast earning cult status among travelers. Active Travel Laos (http://www.activetravellaos.com ) shows some travel tips and advice in Laos.

Vientiane, Laos

Laos is a country that offers plenty of challenging terrain, interesting sites and activities for the adventurous. You can kayak or go boating down the Mekong, trek through jungles atop an elephant, go exploring and even rock-climbing in limestone caves, hike mountains in search of remote and ancient temple ruins or camp out in wildlife conservation parks.

Below on this Laos Country Guide is some useful travel information for visitors contemplating a trip to Laos, including suggestions on where and when to go, visa requirements, money used, information about Laos food and drink as well as a handy Travellers' Dos and Don'ts list.

Traveller Dos and Don'ts

- Do dress modestly when entering temples, museums, official buildings and government offices; no shorts or sleeveless shirts, tank tops or beach wear. Shorts that cover the thighs are acceptable everywhere else. Be clean and neat in appearance whenever possible.

- Do like the locals and keep your sense of time flexible. Expecting punctuality will often lead to frustration.

- Do remove shoes when entering temples and homes (it is convenient to wear slip-ons or sandals).

- Don't point your feet towards people or Buddha images. When sitting in a temple, keep legs together and to the side in a mermaid position.

- Do consider leaving a small donation when visiting temples.

- Don't take pictures posing with Buddha images, handle, climb or sit on them.

- Don't, if you are a woman, touch monks, hand them objects, sit with or talk to them outside of temples. Any offerings need to pass through the hands of a man first.

- Do ask permission before taking pictures of people, particularly in villages outside the cities where the people may have superstitions against being photographed.

- Don't touch people or children on their heads.

- Don't lose your temper in public - speaking loudly and angrily is often counterproductive.

- Don't engage in public displays of affection.

- Do greet someone who is greeting you - by nop, handshake or a polite bow and smile - but don't offer a kiss!

- Do respect the Laos' interpersonal space - there is little physical contact or closeness between individuals who are not family.

- Don't be surprised if someone goes right past you to get to something first - Laos generally do not queue up for anything.

- Do bargain for goods in markets and shops (except where there are fixed prices) but do so with a good attitude and smile. Prices are generally not inordinately high to begin with as they may be in other Asian cities.

Luang Prabang, Laos

Visas and Passports

Passports

Passport with at least six months remaining validity required by everyone who enters Laos.

Visas

Required by all nationals from the UK, Australia, Canada, USA and EU countries.

Visa requirements are subject to change and you should check with your embassy to check the latest visa requirements.

Visas on arrival are for 30 days for most nationalities and this can be extended a max of two times for up to 30 days each time.

The Lao Ministry of Foreign Affairs states that visas can be issued upon arrival in Laos to tourists at the following ports of entry: Wattay Airport in Vientiane; Pakse and Luang Prabang Airports; Friendship Bridges in Vientiane and Savannakhet; and land-border crossings at Boten, Huay Xai and Chong Mek.

Visa Cost

Visa cost ranges from $20 (China) to $42 (Canada). Sweden is $31, $35 for the USA, UK and most of Europe, $40 for India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka and $30 for Australia. The full list is on display at the Visa Application window.

Validity

All visas are issued for single entry and must be used within two months of date of issue.

Applications to: Consulate (or consular section at embassy) or an officially recognized tour operator. A visa valid for Laos can also be obtained from travel agencies in Bangkok (Thailand) or on arrival.

Active Travel Laos is member of ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA offers a wide selection of Laos adventure tours, including hiking and trekking, kayaking, biking, motorcycling, overland touring and family travel packages. The travel packages and custom itineraries will take travelers through exotic destinations to really experience the culture, history and nature of Laos.

Why travel Laos and tips

Refer to Telegraph, in the recent time, the violence and killings on the streets of Bangkok - coupled with a hardening of Foreign Office advice not to travel there – will have horrified many holidaymakers considering a trip to Thailand, traditionally the most popular destination in South-East Asia and a country that sells itself as the “Land of Smiles”.

However, travellers wanting to head to this part of the world should not be deterred: the region’s newer, less well explored destinations – Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos – have an immense amount to offer – including breathtaking landscapes, timeless rivers (not least the Mekong), world-class ruins – and diverse minority tribes.

Why go Laos

Landlocked Laos has a relaxed pace of life and indifference to tourism that make it an idyllic escape. Luang Prabang is one of the most beguiling cities in Asia, with Unesco World Heritage status and faded French charm. Start the day watching alms-collecting monks file down the streets at dawn, and then visit a glittering Buddhist temple. At sunset, drink a Beer Lao on the banks of the Mekong before shopping for local crafts at the lantern-lit night market.

Travellers seeking the comforts of boutique hotels will find them here and in the country’s capital, Vientiane, alongside colonial villas, pleasant boulevards and Laos’s most important golden stupa, the 150ft-tall Pha That Luang.

Vientiane, Laos

To get off the beaten track, take a boat along the bucolic Nam Ou river from Luang Prabang, and drift past caves filled with images of the Buddha and dramatic karst scenery, ending up in sleepy village backwaters. Accommodation is rustic, but nothing beats swinging in a hammock and letting time pass Lao-style.

Ecotourism is blossoming at Luang Nam Tha in the north, where it is possible to walk to the villages of the animist Akha people. Alternatively, head south to the Mekong islands of Si Phan Don, home to fishing villages, waterfalls and rare Irrawaddy dolphins.

Tips: Lao food is relatively unknown, but there are some tasty dishes. Try some jaew, chilli dipping paste for balls of sticky rice, and laab, a fresh, spicy, minced-meat salad, tossed with mint and coriander.

ActiveTravel Laoss (+84-43-633-9576; www.activetravellaos.com) can arrange tailor-made trips to northern and southern Laos. The 12-day Undiscovered Laos and Cambodia includes two nights in Si Phan Don.

Contact Lao National Tourism Administration (www.ecotourismlaos.com) for further information

Discover the treasures of Southeast Asia

From its sweet and spicy cuisine to lush and dense jungles and stunningly gorgeous beaches, there is not a whole lot not to like about Southeast Asia. Culturally rich and breathtakingly beautiful, this area (Thai Lan, and the jewels of Indochina - Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos) of the world has long been a favorite destination for adventurous travelers.

Kayaking in Ba Be, Vietnam

Ancient temples dotting the green hillsides, white sand beaches, rice terraces and food that will wow your taste buds distinguish this gorgeous part of the world. Southeastern Asia’s turmoil in the past few generations have only proven the resiliency and spirit of the people and both Vietnam and Cambodia in particular have healed their wounds and rebuilt in a way that preserves the countries’ ancient past with its future.

If you are wondering how best to explore this unique and incredible area of the world, a great way can be to sign up for a small group adventure tour. This way, you are sure not to miss a beat as you travel to all the best destinations in Southeast Asia and get to experiences places and people in ways that would be impossible on your own.

So, ok, I know what you are thinking. “A travel tour? Isn’t that what old people do?” The answer is no. The truth is travel tours have come a long way since the days of giant air-conditioned buses and old ladies. Today there are tours designed specifically for the independent, adventure traveler. That’s right—active, interesting and adventurous tours that allow travelers to explore and experience a foreign place. First off, they keep the groups small, usually capping out at 16 people, so you won’t be traveling around with some awkwardly huge group of gawking tourists. Second, these tours don’t just scratch the surface of the places you visit.

In fact, by using a combination of local and experienced guides, you’ll often see and experience MORE than you would on your own. Also, because these tours have already been developed to showcase the best of the best, you’ll save yourself from countless hours of potentially pointless research trying to find out where to go and what to eat. Oh, and don’t worry, you definitely won’t be experiencing any part of Southeast Asia from the window of some bus the entire time. Even the shorter Southeast Asia adventure tours have travelers moving about on longtail boats, trains, ferries, foot, tuk-tuks and even on elephants.

East Coast Island Hopping
Thailand boasts some of the finest islands and beaches in the world, with azure waters, white sands and lush forested interiors that all combine to create this unique paradise.

Our relaxed trips to southern Thailand combine island hopping between exotic locations with time to experience a little of the local life through the traditional way of life and of course the food. You will have the chance to snorkel with tropical fish, indulge in the art of Thai cooking and even ride an elephant. Or you may simply decide to relax and pass away the time away under a coconut palm!

From October to April we head to the west coast, and from May to September we visit the islands in the Gulf of Thailand, giving you year-round options to relax and experience these beautiful areas.

Asian Explorer
This is the big one. Four countries – the jewels of Indochina in thirty three days. It is an exciting and memorable trip, taking in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia with their breathtaking contrast in cultures, history and scenery.

Take the journey that is sure to delight and inspire you. This adventure trip will guide you to all the must see places in South East Asia. You will have the opportunity to see the amazing people and places that have survived wars and genocide to thrive in an amazing and beautiful place to make South East Asia what it is today. A vibrant and culturally rich region of the world.

The Great Indochina Loop

Angkor Temples, Cambodia

Get set to discover something new and different every day, as we travel from the hidden treasures of Thailand and the laidback lanes of Laos, to the fabulous vibrancy of Vietnam and the engaging charisma of Cambodia. Get to know the locals, sample sumptuous cuisines, sail over pristine waters and scramble through a wealth of temples on this great adventure that gives you a chance to experience the heart of enthralling Indochina.

Best of Cambodia and Vietnam
The best of Cambodia and Vietnam is unveiled on this journey from Bangkok to Hanoi. Discover the region’s culture and beauty as we visit the stunning temples of Angkor, take a cross-border boat journey along the Mekong and immerse in Vietnam’s markets and vibrant streets. Add to the adventure an overnight boat-stay on Halong Bay, friendly locals and lots of scrumptious food, and the only thing left for you to do is choose a date.

Source: bootsnall

Recommendations:
Vietnam adventure tours
Cambodia adventure tours

Posted by ACTIVETRAVEL VIETNAM at 3:09 PM