By Romping & Nguyening
Now on to what you’ve all been waiting for – THE LARGEST CAVE IN THE WORLD! I’m going to start with 2 things:
1. Hang is the Vietnamese word for cave.
2. Pictures never do justice.
INTRO
Son
Doong cave was discovered by Khanh Ho in 1991, but wasn’t thoroughly
searched and surveyed until 2009 by the British Cave Research
Association, led by Howard and Deb Limbert who are now in Phong Nha full
time to help run the Son Doong tours. Its first year of tourism began in August 2013, with the limit of ~200 tourists per year.
Our tour consists of 2 scientists (including Deb Limbert
herself), 2 National Park rangers, 1 Vietnamese English-speaking guide, Khanh
Ho (the discoverer of the cave), and 24 porters (like sherpas) are all there to
accompany the 8 tourists on the expedition. In sum, there are 30 others needed
for the 8 tourists, for a total of almost 40 people! For these days, the 24 Phong
Nha Vietnamese porters carry 35-40 kg sacks on their backs (filled with food to
feed everyone, tents, sleeping bags, and our belongings), traverse the uneven
path, climb and crawl over and under sharp rocks and steep hills, and have the
campsites ready for us upon arrival. Despite their undaunting size, their
strength was remarkable.
DAY 1: HANG EN
After
we bid farewell to our last breath of air-conditioned air from the van,
we trekked about 10 km through jungle and river valley to our first
campsite, located in Hang En, aka Swallow Cave. By Swallow, I mean the
bird (they’re actually Swifts, but the name stuck), and the reason why
it is called Swallow Cave is because tens or hundreds of thousands of
swifts fly in and around the cave (fun fact: they use echolocation —
like bats — to fly in the dark cave). In order to get to Hang Son Doong,
you actually have to go through a cave (Hang En) to get there! It’s
basically a cave within a cave.
The porters begin the journey first:
There
is 1 village in Phong Nha National Park. It is an extremely poor
village of 28 people, half whom are children. They build their own
homes, raise their own livestock, and grow their own crops. Occasionally
they can hitch a ride into the nearest town of Phong Nha, which is
about an hour away.
These villagers were TINY! Look how giant I look next to this woman:
Some nice rest stops:
And
finally, our destination: Hang En! It is not the largest cave in the
world, but its size is still magnificent. You can easily book a trekking Swallow cave tour if you are unable to do Son Doong. Check out Hang En below.
Chris brought a cord so he could turn it into a clothesline for our wet clothes. Yay!
DAY 2: SON DOONG
After breakfast, we trekked through and exited Hang En to make our trekking Son Doong!
Here are some photos exiting Hang En:
A short break after hiking uphill in the tiresome heat:
The
entrance to Son Doong, the smallest cave entrance into the largest cave
in the world! There was a lot of crawling, roping, and some real
downward vertical caving involved. Fortunately the guides were there to
help us descend into the dark cave.
We
trekked through the dark for a while, slowly climbing over large and
small boulders and crossing small rivers. Finally, we arrived at our
second campsite of the trip, which was located near the first roof
collapse of Son Doong. This is what the campsite looked like from a
distance:
We
spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out and exploring the campsite,
anxiously waiting for tomorrow’s famous views and photo opportunities.
DAY 3: SON DOONG'S JUNGLE
The
first and second days were “wet” days, meaning we crossed many streams
and rivers so our shoes, socks, and feet were wet the whole day. The
third day was a dry day – no rivers to cross! However, there were many
sharp rocks and boulders we had to climb over and under, but we were
rewarded with some of the most amazing landscapes imaginable.
Here we are exiting camp toward the first roof collapse.
Look at how sharp these rocks are. We had fun going under and over them!
Up
and up we went! We were rewarded with lush greenery along beautiful
“terraces” carved out by flooded rivers. During the rainy season, there
are no tours in Son Doong because the flooded rivers practically fill up
the cave, carving out wonderful but sharp rocks and boulders. The
rivers later recede, and sunlight pours in from the collapsed ceiling to
give life to the jungle within the cave.
From the top of the hill, you could look down to the side where you last stood before the climb:
Or look up:
Walk a bit further up past the trees, and there’s more playthings:
After
hanging out on these mounds, we proceeded to finally go DOWN. Below the
mounds were amazing formations carved from the flooded rivers:
After
we finished climbing up and over these formations, we turned around and
were treated to the climax of the whole expedition, one of the most
famous views of Sơn Đoòng. Those mounds that we just hung out on? Well,
those mounds are the tops of the hills in the photos below. We enjoyed
our lunch here.
We
spent quite some time here, admiring the scenery and taking more
photos. Mist would quickly appear and dissipate, creating an eery
atmosphere. We continued with the trek through the dark cave, and when
we saw another sliver of light in the distance, we knew we were nearing
the second roof collapse, the site of our final campsite. See the tents
below?
Going down is kind of scary, more so because of my fear of heights.
Our third and final campsite!
The tents lit up at night:
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