Things to do in Sapa

Just a cushy overnight train journey (350km North of Hanoi) towards the Chinese border, lies the mountainous market town of Sapa. Cooler temperatures, extravagantly dressed hill tribe folks and a French colonial flavour make you feel like you’ve stepped into a different world. The little town is charming in it’s own right, with it’s quaint little streets, coffee shops and bustling markets, but it is best used as the starting point for adventures into the surrounding hills and valleys.



Trekking amidst misty mountains and steeped rice terraces to visit traditional hill-tribe villages is where the real magic of Sapa can be found. And, although the area is now very accustomed to visits from tourists, you’ll still experience a fascinating way of life and witness a different side to Vietnam. (You’ll even come away with a fetching cushion cover you never knew you needed!)

For longer trekking Sapa, (two or three days) it’s possible to arrange home stays with the Black H’mong, Red Dzao and Dzay ethnic minorities, where you’ll be welcomed into their homes as part of the family – ladle upon ladle of delicious homemade food and lashings of potent local moonshine ‘Xeo’ guaranteed! Waking up to the fresh mountain air and the beautiful scenery all around is an experience that you won’t forget.



Further day trips from Sapa include visits to the traditional markets, such as Bac Ha Weekend Market and Muong Hum Market. Mingle with the locals as they trade homemade goods, haggle for some unique souvenirs and try some local delicacies. For a unique cultural experience, don’t miss the Saturday night ‘Love Market’ in Sapa where local hill tribes congregate from villages all around to find their perfect match.

If you’re feeling really adventurous you can climb (and hopefully summit) the highest mountain in Vietnam, ‘Fansipan.’ (3143 m) Climb through pine forest and bamboo thicket to reach the summit and be rewarded with amazing panoramic views over Vietnam and North to China and Yunnan province.
Source:Southeastasiabackpacker

The Perfect Halong Bay Trip

By Lina Eroh

Halong Bay, with its 1000s of limestone cliff "islands," is a must for any visitor to Vietnam. Seeing the pictures is one thing, but actually looking up and around you and seeing nothing but sheer rock coming out of the water is quite another. If it's solitude or adventure you're after, it's all here at Halong.

The one must that your tour should provide is kayaking Halong Bay. This is, rightfully, almost everyone's favorite activity as it allows you to freely explore the caves and grottos carved out by the water. We kayaked into the "James Bond cave," which was featured in Tomorrow Never Dies, and then spent another hour just exploring the various nooks within the rocks.

If you want a more adventurous trip, opt for a one-night on boat, one-night on island package. That way you can do some trekking and additional kayaking in a different bay.

If you want a more relaxing trip, opt for two nights on the boat. I actually wish we had done that, because all the transfers on the second day take a while and kill the atmosphere a bit.

Our trip, with Monkey Island Cruises, took us to Monkey Island the second day. It was okay, but the water around it was filled with trash and the "superior" bungalows were tiny and lacked any view. The pouring rain didn't help matters.

One benefit of all the transfers is the drive through Cat Ba Island, which is the only populated island in Halong. Lonely Planet calls it "something straight out of Jurassic Park," and in this instance, they're right. Besides for the one town and road, the locals have largely left Cat Ba to the elements, which means it's a mix of jungle, rock, tropical rainstorms, and fog that rivals San Francisco's. In short, it's a hell of a 40-minute drive, and probably the best part of our trip to Monkey Island.

Our Two Day Motorcycle Northern Vietnam Diaries

By Lina Eroh

Northeast Vietnam boasts nature as you've never seen it, and as you only can atop a bright yellow motorbike. Black rock forests, rice terraces climbing to the clouds, and unscalable mountains would be enough to make the area around Ha Giang a must-visit destination, but when you add in the ubiquitous presence of the Black Hmong, our two day motorbike Vietnam becomes a can't miss.

Mention Ha Giang in conversation and you'll get one of two responses: a confused brain-searching look, or a reverence that passes across the listener's face. The towns in Vietnam's far northeast aren't on many itineraries, but for those in the know, they're top destinations that boast the best of the North's mind-boggling landscape. Even the NY Times got in on the craze a few years ago, writing what can only be described as an adjective-filled ode to the area.

I'm not sure how we decided to travel here, but decide we did, even though we had only three days before our flight out of the country and nothing at all prearranged.This is a different Vietnam, one where hotel workers speak no English; where live pigs and chickens are transported atop motorbikes; where you get dog meat when you order vegetables and noodles; and where being foreign (and especially white) means everyone in town comes to watch you talk, walk, and eat.

This is a place where you need a permit to spend the night, one where electric pink scarves and high-pitched screams of "hello" from the cliffs above the road are the only things that alert you to the presence of people. It's a place where children carry double their weight of sticks in bamboo baskets upon their backs, where men dress in high-necked black tunics and matching berets, and where the "forests" are black stone.

It's really a land like no other, and it can only be properly explored on a motorbike and with sufficient time. The first thing we learned, and quickly, was that with no prearrangements, we would lose a day in Ha Giang. This would be bad enough if we had ample time, given that Ha Giang isn't the greatest city, but it was worse given that we only had three days to begin with.

The shortest trip with the most "bang for the buck" takes you to the town of Dong Van, then on to Meo Vac, and then back to Ha Giang. It's 330km and lets you drive the most famous portion of the road, but doesn't allow much time for interacting with the locals, trekking, or letting your butt rest from the motorbike.

Dong Van had a few restaurants, but most seem to close around 6pm. We ate at the fried rice place across from our homestay. The meal, at 40,000D, was pretty good and extremely filling. For breakfast, you can try bahn cuon, a rice crepe stuffed with beef.

Recommended tours by ActiveTravel Asia:

• Motorcycling Grand Frontier North Loop of Vietnam
• Complete Trekking in Ha Giang

Trekking Northwestern Vietnam

By Audrey

A knock on the carriage door. The scent of fresh coffee being poured into cups. The gold duvet wrapped around my body. Thick fog hanging over the sleeping hills. The halt of the train pulling into Lao Cai – a train station which lies only 1 kilometer away from the Vietnam-China border. A little van chugging uphill as it follows the curvature of the mountains.

That was my introduction to Sapa and I felt like I was falling into a dream as opposed to waking from one.

There was something magical about travelling all night aboard a train and waking up to an entirely different landscape in such a remote part of the country. How was this still Vietnam? But that’s the thing about this country, it has one of the most diverse terrains; you can be in a bustling city like Hanoi fighting scooters for a little trekking Sapa in one day, and then you can find yourself wandering the streets of a small hillside village the next.

Sapa won me over with its mountain views and small town feel on the first day, but it was things like pumpkin soup, water buffaloes roaming the streets, gnocchi Bolognese, fresh mountain air, and strawberry tea, that made me want to linger. (Yes, most of my reasons are food, but trust me, this town knows what it’s doing in the cooking department.)

Here are a few photos from my time in Sapa:

Stunning terrace field

Enthralling scenery

H'mong woman plays with her daughter

A man balances two baskets on the back of his motorcycle

Surreal experience in Sapa, Vietnam

By Asha and Ryan

Sapa – or more accurately, the mountainous countryside around Sapa – is the most stunningly beautiful place we have been since leaving the islands of Thailand’s Krabi provence a few months ago. On this point, Asha and I both agree.

To get to Sapa we took an overnight sleeper train (our favourite mode of transportation) from Hanoi to the border town of Lao Cai, however a bone rattling fever made the trip pretty awful and sleep hard to come by for me. Our hotel (Hanoi Guesthouse – probably the best place we have stayed this year, i think they will get their own post on here later) were incredibly helpful, booking our train tickets, calling out next hotel to organise our pickup at the other end, organising a taxi to the train station and even sending someone from the hotel on motorbike behind our taxi to make sure we got on the right train. In a place like Hanoi, where travelling can be a bit of a headache at times, having this kind of service is just fantastic.

From Lao Cai it was only one hour by bus to Sapa, a trip that revealed to us just how mesmerising the scenery in this part of Vietnam is. The region is full of soaring peaks and steep valleys, with terraced fields, rice paddies and thatched roofed villages turning the region (as Asha said) into something out of a National Geographic magazine. Add women in traditional dress (usually chasing you down to sell you their handicrafts), snotty nosed kids and families planting rice across the valley, and yeah, you get the picture.

Sapa is a tourist town high in the mountains, close Fansipan (Vietnam’s highest peak), and it immediately felt very different from everywhere else we had been in south-east asia. The temparatures in Sapa are much lower than everywhere else, with winter temperatures often dropping below freezing and snow even falls from time to time. But its summer now, and we were blessed with some gorgeous sunny afternoons and a cool breeze, allthough at time clouds did sweep in and blanket the town white.

In Sapa it felt like the heat and humidity that had clung to our skin and clothes for the last 3 months had finally dropped away, and the fresh mountain air had our spirits soaring (after my fever had passed).

Our hotel was more akin to a mountain chalet, with open fireplaces in each room and wood paneling. The landing in front of our room overlooked the huge valley and distant peaks, but a box of kittens living in the woodshed behind our room was of far more interest to Asha, who was constantly sneaking out to check on them and win the trust of the mother. “She trusts me, I am one of them now”

Apart from gazing at the view and watching endless activity going on in the terraced fields and paddies below and above us, the only real activities we did in Sapa were trekking (well, walking really, but trekking sounds way better) to Cat Cat Village, and doing a Vietnamese cooking course.

The trekking Sapa took a few hours, and it was great to get out and into the countryside, to walk through villages and fields and see people going about their day to day. The return journey however was a bit more difficult, as it didn’t seem to register on the first leg that the return would be all uphill, and all steep. But some strenuous exercise, lungfuls of cool mountain air and a much needed release of endorphins had us pretty content that afternoon, and watching the hawks win in the late afternoon breeze topped it all off.

Surreal experience cycling Vietnam

By Baerbel

After strenuous days in the mountains and as Johan had caught a cold we spent a lazy day in Ha Giang before moving on to our next destination Sapa with the highest mountains in Vietnam. It took us three uneventful days on ever undulating roads to get to Cao Lai, a town at the bottom of the mountain that leads to Sapa and a border crossing to China. 

The next morning was my birthday and Johan organized a nice breakfast at a 3-star hotel next door. When we entered the breakfast room at 6am sharp our table was nicely decorated, ‘Happy birthday’ music was playing and a few minutes later I got a bunch of flowers and balloons! What a lovely and surprise. It is unforgettable menmories in active travel Vietnam trip.

By 7am we had filled our stomachs with yummy food, decorated my bike nicely and were ready for another challenge. 36km uphill to Sapa, while the first 6km started easy as the road was mainly flat with just a few very short climbs not even worth mentioning. The real challenge begun afterwards. To make the climbing more fun (as if it was fun at all!!!) we played a game: boot camp with Baerbel the drill master. One set consisting of three times 20 minutes climbing followed by a five-minute break. The last 20 minutes were followed by a 15-minute break. This worked quite well except for the very end where ascents became so steep that we had to stop almost every kilometer. But we managed all way up to 1,600m in 4.5 hours without pushing our bikes. The rest of the afternoon we relaxed and ate delicious food.

We spent two more days in Sapa to recharge our batteries and while we didn’t really like the mountain resort itself as it is far too touristic for us we enjoyed the cool temperatures in the mid 20′s and the food and relaxed atmosphere of our hotel. We also had great views of the Fan Xi Pan, the highest mountain in Indochina with an altitude of over 3,143m.

The day of our departure was another challenging biking Vietnam, even if only for the first part as we took Vietnam’s highest road leading over a 2,100m pass. We tackled the tough climb with mostly over 10% grades in about two hours and were rewarded with one of the most stunning views into the valley. From the top we could see the road winding down and were very much looking forward to a 30-kilometer downhill ride! A fantastic one with many stops to take pictures.

My First Impression Trekking Sapa

By Audrey Scott

Even in winter, Sapa’s landscape dazzles with its rolling hills and terraced rice fields. The villages and people are just as unique. It’s like a portal to another world.

Su was our trusty Black Hmong guide dressed in a dark indigo top and skirt with brightly embroidered trim, velvet strips wrapped around her legs and comfortable sneakers. Within moments of leaving the hotel, we were surrounded by a gaggle of (giggling) girls who came only to hip level and danced around us calling out “what’s your name?” “how old are you?” “do you have any brothers or sisters?”.

Trekking Sapa is like walking through a time warp. Women with bright red headdresses and clothing covered in colorful embroidery walk by with babies and wicker basket backpacks on their backs. Girls are miniature versions or their mothers, learning how to embroider (and sell) at an early age. Boys play in the fields and tend to the water buffalos. Houses are simple structures with dirt floors, often without electricity or running water.

The second day of trekking tour took us through deeper valleys and muddier paths into villages of other ethnic groups. Children and women with heavy loads on their backs flitted over the hills and steep paths with simple sandals, while tourists in sturdy hiking boots were falling all over each other trying to stay balanced. The simplicity, scope and beauty of the surrounding terraced rice fields was impressive.

We had a long walk ahead of us and weren’t interested in buying any souvenirs. We were waiting for the shopping opportunities at Bac Ha market. At one of the resting points, a Red Dao woman latched onto me. Acutely aware of her befriend-and-sell strategy, I told her straight away that we weren’t shopping that day. The woman laughed and continued to walk with us.

Sapa is like no other place we’ve visited. It is a visually spectacular, magical place – with its endless hills of terraced rice fields and concentration of hill tribe ethnic minorities whose colorful traditional clothing beautifully accent the landscape. It doesn’t feel like people are wearing traditional attire just to please tourists and their cameras – their dress is a matter of pride and identity.

I wonder how life in the villages and people will change over the next few years. Already, children from the villages stay in town for several days at a time to accompany tourists and sell handicrafts. When I asked Su how tourism had changed her village, she replied that it hasn’t changed it too much yet, but that in 15 years it will be very different. I believe she’s underestimating the pace of change.

Not all change is bad, of course – sometimes it brings a better standard of life with improved health care, education and nutrition. However, if Vietnam wants to preserve the uniqueness and cultures of its ethnic minorities, it will need to responsibly manage the tourism boom in places like Sapa. 

Three days Kayaking Ha Long Bay

By Makrand

Ha Long Bay is one of the most popular tourist place in North Vietnam. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a collection of more than 1000 islands of various sizes most of which are formed by limestones.  It is also listed as one of the seven new wonders of the world.

It is located around 170 KM east of Hanoi and it takes around 3 and half hours to reach there by bus.  It can be reached by public transport or hiring a taxi from Hanoi. Alternatively you can take a group tour from any of the travel agency in Hanoi. Agencies offer various types of tours ranging from a day trip to 3 days trip. The cost of these tours also vary depending on the luxury level. If you do not have much time in hand then you can opt for a day trip which will take you through important spots of the region.

Kayaking Halong Bay tour starts at around 8 AM from Hanoi and you reach around noon time at Ha Long Bay. The bus stops for a break of around 20 mins at a stopover.  Once you reach Ha Long Bay you will notice two things –  The beautiful sea along with hundreds of boats of various sizes and a huge crowd waiting to get on boats. There is a small scam at the shore. 

After everyone is settled, the boat starts sailing through the sea and you start passing through limestone formations around you. Since it will be lunch time, soon you will be served lunch on the boat. Vegetarian food was  available but with extremely limited options of rice, tofu and fruits. You can buy drinks on the boat if required.  Food quality was ok just enough to survive for the day.

The views from the deck are very nice. You can see limestone formations in all directions. The boat moves steadily in sea water and gentle breeze making it more wonderful. The guide will tell you history of the place along the way. Meaning of Ha Long in Vietnamese is Descending Dragon. Vietnamese people believe that dragon was sent by God to protect land from invaders.

The boat then stops at fishing village. From there you take ride in traditional vietnamese bamboo boats passing below the rocks. You can also do kayaking at this place at additional cost. Its a very peaceful place and ideal for kayaking Halong Bay. This is the most beautiful region of the Bay.

The final part of trip takes you inside one of the huge caves which are open to tourists. The guide will show you various shapes of rocks which look like various animals. Sunlight enters through very narrow gaps and artificial lights are also places inside caves.

Cycling North Vietnam

By Dan Moore

They may not capture the children who run to the roadside, posed for a high-five as we pass by. Or the old women who try to cycle faster than us, laughing and balancing small mountains of rice on their own bikes all the way. They don’t show the locals who slow their scooter-pace, only to ask where we are going and where we are from, never driving off without first volunteering to pull us the rest of the way. And of course, you can’t hear the hundreds of ‘hallos’ called out to us each day, or the fits of giggles that follow when we wave or smile back.

Unfortunately we aren’t too good at simultaneously taking photos and cycling Vietnam – we’re working on it, we promise. In the meantime, here are a few images from our first few days of biking North Vietnam. They still offer a pretty good snapshot of our surroundings in the beautiful, mountainous north.

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Northern Vietnam

Biking Northern Vietnam

Active Travel Northern Vietnam

By Peter Brown 

After a painfully long flight I landed in the Hanoi airport, and immediately hopped aboard an overnight train heading north. I shared a sleeper cabin with a French couple, and a girl from Quebec. They were all very nice, and we chatted for a couple of hours before hitting the hay. But I’m a light sleeper, and falling asleep on the clanging, jostling train car proved to be impossible- CA-CLUNK, ca-clunk! CA-CLUNK, ca-clunk! CA-CLUNK, ca-clunk!

Sapa, Northern Vietnam

I woke up at the Lao Cai train station, near the border with China, and found a car to drive me an hour west, through foggy, winding roads, to the mountain town of Sapa. The town was a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns: farmer’s markets glowed green with leafy vegetables, motorbikes zigged and zagged over every paved surface, and groups of indigenous women wore their customary handmade attire and patrolled for tourists to whom they might sell embroidered bags and Technicolor scarfs.

I spent the next three days trekking Sapa. My days were spent with Sung, a wonderfully peaceful woman from the Black Hmong tribe, who spoke fine English thanks to years of guiding western tourists around those parts. Sung took me to waterfalls, jungles, terraced rice paddies, small villages, across precarious bridges and along muddy mountain trails.

My favorite moment with Sung had to be when she took me to a little lunch spot in the village of Lao Chai. She sat me down in the main dining area (which consisted of picnic benches under a wooden canopy) and then she disappeared into the kitchen. When I realized she was eating lunch with the cooks, I sheepishly poked my head around the corner and asked if I could join them. I guess most tourists prefer the picnic benches, but I was alone, and much preferred getting to know Sung and her friends. They pulled up a chair for me and the cook brought over some of the most delish sautéed greens I’ve ever had, along with some tasty spiced pork and rice, and a can of coke. While eating, I peppered them all with questions about their daily routines, and Sung translated. They laughed at how excited I was to hear about everyday activities like planting rice and raising buffalo. To top it all off, I sat beside a window with a view I won’t bother describing, just look at the glorious picture below.

After exploring the North for three days, I got back on that overnight train and returned to Hanoi. Once in Hanoi, I quickly found my way kayaking Ha Long Bay. Several hours on the bus brought us to a harbor, where our group boarded The Calypso, a worn, but pleasant boat that would take us deep into the fantastical mountain islands that have made Ha Long Bay a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Calypso was one of dozens of boats making the trip, and so a fleet of us set sail for the islands. The Calypso provided us with lovely bedrooms, and meals, and the crew even gave a nice little cooking lesson and a Tai-Chi class the next morning.

Kayaking Halong Bay

The crew must have noticed the date of birth on my passport when I checked in, because after dinner the main lights turned off, strobe lights turned on, Vietnamese techno blasted from the speakers, and a birthday cake appeared before me. It was ridiculous. But it was a fun night. The other guests were good sports to sing Happy Birthday to a guy they hardly knew.

While in Ha Long Bay we stopped off to see a giant cave, and some of us went sea kayaking through tunnels to explore a lagoon in the center of a ring shaped island crawling with monkeys. My imagination couldn’t get enough of the scenery, and so I found a little time for watercolor painting.

Before I knew it we’d landed back at the harbor, and were boarding the return bus to Hanoi. I had an amazing week of traveling around northern Vietnam.

Unforgetable homestay and trekking Sapa, Vietnam

By Anna Baldwin

My next stop after Hanoi was to jump on the night train in search of the stunning paddy fields of Sapa. As the train pulled out of the station I said goodbye to the noises, lights and smells of the bustling Hanoi streets and settled into my cosy cabin as we set off north towards China. The cabins are generally made up of four beds- 2 sets of bunk beds- but often if travellers want a bit more privacy and space we are able to book the whole cabin for them. I was lucky enough to be joined by a lovely German couple, along with their local guide, and we spent the next couple of hours talking and exchanging food as the train made its way deeper into the vast countryside.

The train soon lulled me into a deep sleep, and before I knew it we had arrived at Lao Chai station, our last stop on the train before it returned south to Hanoi.

Although it was barely dawn, the station exit was surrounded by taxi drivers, guides and hawkers ready to pounce, but I soon found my local guide, Dong, who pulled me through the crowds and into our 4X4.  Within a few minutes we were off on the hour-long drive to Sapa town. It was a stunning drive as we slowly climbed higher and higher towards Sapa, where we soon reached a height of 1,600m! Surrounded on all sides by paddy fields dotted with numerous tribal villages, Sapa is very much a mountain town, with its steep roads filled with shops selling trekking gear and rows of balconied wooden houses overlooking the dramatic landscape beyond.

Impressive trekking Sapa

After some breakfast and last minute tour preparations we set off with our wonderful local porter Sing, who was to carry all our food and drinks for the next three days, and we drove to the beginning of the trek – Ta Van village.

We soon left behind the Dzay village of Ta Van and set off along the valley. This is where I truly tested my balancing skills, as we made our way along narrow paths and the edges of the paddy fields which lined the mountainside. Luckily two lovely local ladies came to my rescue; half my size and twice my age, they obviously make a habit of adopting the most hopeless-looking trekker to make sure they don’t fall face first into the flooded paddy field below.

Black H'Mong ladies

The route took us through a number of different tribal villages, from Red Dao to Black H’Mong, who wear mainly black clothing as their name suggests.  The dye in their clothing often runs and so, as a result, their hands are also stained a little black.

After a long but stunning trekking Sapa, we eventually arrived at Seo Trung Ho Village, our base for the night. Never before had I seen such a dramatic, remote location for a village. In one direction you will find a magnificent waterfall thundering away behind the village, and the other provides breathtaking views across the valley with the misty mountains in the distance. There’s not a tourist in sight…

Terrace field , Sapa Vietnam

After an evening of rice wine and delicious home-cooked food, I went to sleep in my homestay Sapa with the sound of the waterfall and the light patter of rain.Rice wine and home-cooked food, not a bad combination after a good day's trekking Sapa tour.This light patter was hugely magnified by morning as I woke to find we’d had heavy rainstorms all night and the waterfall was twice the size!

This resulted in making our morning route a little too unpredictable with the wet conditions, so it was decided we would do that morning by motorbike. Another unforgettable experience trekking Sapa tour – driving down from the village into the valley, through the river, and up onto the other side, slowly picking our way through the roads with awesome views all the way down the valley to the distant mountains. Suddenly the sun came out and the clouds disappeared, and I could see for miles. As we drove further along the valley I looked back and was thrilled to see the magnificent ‘’Roof of Indochina,’’ Fansipan Mountain, the tallest mountain in all of Indochina. I thought – I’ll save that one for next time trekking Vietnam

Exploring Countryside Mai Chau, Vietnam by Bike

By  Tim Russell

Northern Vietnam is worth a visit for many reasons – the charming capital Hanoi, the incredible scenery of Halong Bay, the stunning landscapes of Ninh Binh – but for many visitors, the mountains and rice terraces of the northern mountains are the biggest draw.

The mountain town of Sapa and its surroundings are without doubt the best spot to enjoy Vietnam’s northern scenery at its grandest, but given that getting there & back requires two overnight train journeys, expensive helicopter flights or an epic (but spectacular) road trip, many visitors simply don’t have the time to go there, which is where Mai Chau comes in as a handy and more convenient substitute.

Spectacular Mai Chau valley 

Situated a short-ish and mostly scenic 3.5-hour drive from Hanoi, Mai Chau is comparatively accessible and can thus be done as a 1 or 2-night trip, possibly combined with Kenh Ga & Ninh Binh on the way back to the capital.

That’s exactly what I do, heading out of Hanoi early one bright morning and heading south-west through increasingly beautiful and mountainous scenery until, after heading over one last mountain pass, we drop down into Mai Chau valley, with tiny villages with smoking chimneys dotted against a background so green it is hard to believe it is actually real.

A village of traditional stilthouses

My destination? Pom Coong, a White Thai minority village where several villagers operate family homestays, allowing guests to share their charming stilthouses whilst they go about their usual business of farming, cooking and weaving. And what wonderful hosts they are – arriving just in time for lunch, I’m presented with various local dishes (the grilled pork, sourced right from the village itself, is particularly tasty) and some cold beers, before the man of the house appears with a bicycle and encourages me to follow him on a personal tour of the neighbouring villages & countryside. I quickly realize that Pom Coong is actually pretty touristy – few of the other villages have more than one or two houses offering homestays and next time I vow to pick one of those. It’s a great area for cycling though – mostly flat (though hillier routes are available for more serious cyclists than I) along narrow paths through scenic stilthouse villages inhabited by locals who are rarely exposed to foreign tourists (the advantage of using one of the villagers as a guide rather than a professional tour guide I guess).

Friendly White Thai kids

We arrive home late afternoon, just in time to watch the women of the family preparing dinner and refusing all offers of help – it seems my job is simply to sit & drink beer & watch the sun set behind the mountains, a position I am more than capable of filling. After another superb home-cooked meal, I wander to the main village square to buy a couple of woven wall hangings for my office and to watch a traditional music & dance performance which, though I’m not convinced they’d be doing it if there were no tourists here, feels a lot more authentic and heartfelt than other such performances I’ve witnessed in the past.

Then it’s time for one of the high points of the trip – bed. Why? Because I’m sleeping upstairs in a stilthouse, on a thin mattress under a mosquito net, with the cows & pigs snuffling around downstairs as a cool mountain breeze blows in through the window. I enjoy an utterly blissful night’s sleep and, were it not for the irresistible odours of fresh coffee & fried eggs drifting upstairs at 6.30am the following morning, would undoubtedly have slept a lot longer. (NB for those who really don’t feel like roughing it to this extent, more luxurious accommodation is provided by Mai Chau Lodge, a 4* property with pool, sauna and all the usual facilities.)

Locally woven fabrics are an essential purchase

Breakfast done, and it’s time to “catch” today’s lunch – one of the free range chickens that roam around the village at will. This, much to the delight of the French children staying in the house next door, is accomplished using a bow & arrow, and my host is a veritable Robin Hood when it comes to archery, dispatching his chosen target with skill & accuracy.

Whilst the unfortunate victim is prepared for the pot, I head off for more cycling & photography, returning just in time to enjoy the fruits of the morning’s hunt – food always seems to taste better if you’ve seen it alive. I then bid a sad farewell to my wonderful hosts, and head back to my car for the journey back to Hanoi, via Kenh Ga, more about which in a future post.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Biking Hidden Paths of Mai Chau & Ninh Binh tour.This trip offers a great opportunity to see the two area of outstanding nature beauty; the North West highlands of Mai Chau and the limestone mountains of Ninh Binh. Biking is a great way to see this fascinating and visually stunning part of Vietnam, offering both physical activity and the unique opportunity to observe a way of life that has changed little over the centuries. As we ride in Mai Chau we encounter Muong and White Thai minorities and are guests in their traditional stilt houses allowing us to see firsthand how these minority peoples live. In Ninh Binh we explore the beauty of “Halong Bay on the rice fields” on bikes.

Highlights: 

• Awesome scenery
• Tam Coc - the "Halong Bay on the rice fields"
• Homestay in Thai village
• Traditional foot massage

Trekking with Locals in Sapa, Vietnam

By Rob

I sit here totally exhausted but with a huge smile. Today I went trekking in Sapa, Vietnam with a local guide. It was a rare clear day and couldn’t of possibly had a better opportunity to venture into a world somewhat unfamiliar to myself. It was one of those cool experiences you won’t forget.

My buddies left today, alarm went at 7am, they shook my hand while I was in bed. Then like any true gentleman, I got out of bed and enjoyed coffee with them before they left, only proper thing to do. Drank a few more and did some web work before rolling out on yet another “solo adventure”.

Local village ladies in Sapa Vietnam

Hit up the local market, eat some pho with some village people and begin wandering while wondering what to do with myself. I decided “Phuket, I’m going to go visit that village”. About 20 steps later, I ask these local ladies what way it is, suddenly they are all following me and offering to come with me. I give this one lady a pinky swear that I’ll go with her and buy something, I had a cool $5us burning a hole in my pocket anyways. Slowly but surely the other 6 women taper off until it’s just “T” and myself.

Ladies relaxing in sapa vietnam

We cruise down the road and off the beaten trail, I keep thinking “ok, she must live somewhere near here, soon”. .. How mistaken I was, turns out she lives 12KM of harsh terrain away. There are a few villages in the big valley near Sapa. One is 7km, one is 10km and one is 12km. She lives on the outskirts of the 12km one, up the steepest and most erosion ridden paths one could imagine. I carried her basket most of the way, these ladies are TOUGH. T is 50 years old and walks 12km up hill to get to Sapa and then 12km back 2-3 times a week. Sometimes she takes a taxi but ONLY if it was a good day in sales and she is insanely tired.

Trekking in Sapa Vietnam with a local guide

We walk, we walk, we walk. I can’t describe the way there without doing it an injustice. It was truly a spectacular sight and sensational on the senses. We went through all the tourist hot spots and just kept going. By the end I was SERIOUSLY dragging my feet and sweating like a gorilla in full business attire on an local bus in Bali sans a/c during dry season. It is warm here in the sun and I had on my warmest clothes because I didn’t really pay attention to the weather when I left for breakfast.

Small village in Sapa Vietnam

We arrive and she actually has a pretty sick pad. I mean it’s basic but it’s quite big and she has tones of pigs, chickens and a dog. What is crazy is that 15-20 people live there, wow. She gave me the full tour and then I noticed some plants. Next thing you know I’m sitting on her front stoop high in the mountains near Sapa with massive bags at my feet. I sat there for what felt like an hour or so until my lungs officially refused to stop taking in air.

After that we eat a nice meal with her family and drank a bunch of rice wine. At this point she asks if I want to buy anything, I hand her 100,000vdn and say “I don’t need anything, this is for the experience”.

Inside villager house Sapa Vietnam

What a totally random, incredibly awesome and unique experience I had to day. This is what I love most and seriously don’t bother with a guided tour when you get to Sapa. Just meet a nice lady and “go from there”, they will all offer to take you home and many sleep the night. I could have but I was like “ok, this was cool but I already have a room.” I’m glad I did it but I’m also glad to hopefully never have to take that trek again, it’s tough.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Sapa Trekking & Homestay tour.At an elevation of 1,600 meters, Sapa is a delightful former French hill station situated in the mountainous region of Vietnam's northwest, close to the Chinese border. The region is home to many ethnic minority groups, each wearing traditional and colorful attire. This trip includes a trek through the hills and valleys of the Sapa region, discovering several different minorities along the way. You will experience overnight accommodation in the hospitable villages of Giay and Tay ethnic minorities. The apparent hardships are worth it though as we walk through some of the most spectacular scenery that Vietnam has to offer and experience unique villages culture.

Highlights: 

• Awesome scenery
• Rice terraces
• Colorful minority groups 
• Homestays in minority villages

Impressive bends on Happiness Road

The 4C highway from Ha Giang town through Quan Ba, Yen Minh to Dong Van rock plateau is especially attractive to tourists with its bends. 

Highway 4C with 185 km in length through the rocky plateau of Dong Van, Ha Giang is named Hanh Phuc (Happiness). This is the road which was formed by the effort and even the blood and bones of thousands of young volunteers from the 50s – 60s of the 20th century.

Impressive Happiness Road

For adventurous travellers and those who love exploring the highlands, Hanh Phuc Road is a special journey. The towering passes like Bac Sum, Cong Troi (Heaven Gate), Can Ty, Mau Due will bring them to cloudy Lung Cu, and especially the famous wall Ma Pi Leng, which will be always worthy for their effort.

Leaving peaceful Ha Giang city with the Km 0 landmark of Highway 2 to conquer the Hanh Phuc road on the rocky plateau, after 20 miles of relatively flat road is the Heaven Gate Pass. Standing on the peak of Heaven Gate, tourists will see Tam Son town in the heart of the valley, with villas and beautiful houses stretching to the foothills. The Quan Ba mount, which is in the shape of a young girl’s breast, looks striking amid the Tam Son vast field.

Impressive Happiness Road

Riding a motorbike through passes and hills, tourists will see peaceful scenes in the valleys. The villages of the highland ethnic groups in Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, Meo Vac have changed. People have no longer grown poppies but corn on the arid rock.

Dong Van Plateau is not only a geological park of the world, but also a land containing the typically historical evidence of upland people of Ha Giang province. Before the Hanh Phuc Road was built, Quan Ba was separated to the plains by the Heaven Gate pass.

Impressive Happiness Road

Located adjacent to Hanh Phuc road and 14 km from Dong Van town today is evidence of the Wang clan. The King of H’Mong people Vuong Duc Chinh was the first who ruled the ethnic minorities here.

Commercial exchange between the H’mong King with the North is clearly shown in the architecture of the residences of Vuong family. The whole building is surrounded by stone walls of over 1m thick, with the height of 2.5 to 3 m. A huge volume of rare wood and blue stones was used to build this massive work.

When the Nho Que River is completely hidden under the canyon, Meo Vac town appears. The lives of the people in the North-most region of the country are still very poor but the bud of "happiness" is blossoming on the stones.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Motorcycling West to East Northern Vietnam tour.This motorcycling trip reveals a different route to get from Son La to Thac Ba. It offers adventurous riders stunning scenery and great tribal culture exploration. The route is not yet popular thus you do not share the roads with other tourist but mainly share the roads with the locals who are on their Honda to the farm. The perfect itinerary and the support crew ensure you get the most out of the trip in terms of comfort, enjoyment and adventure.

Highlights: 

• Stunning scenery
• Challenging roads
• Thac Ba Reservoir
• Colorful ethnic minorities

The best street food in Hanoi

Sidewalk restaurants are a special feature of Hanoi. Enjoying delicious cuisines at age-old restaurants in the Old Quarter is very interesting.

The small Hang Chai Street is crowded every morning by the vehicles of people who come to enjoy bun oc (noodle and snails) at house number 6. This noodle shop has been operating for 25 years. The price for a bowl of noodles and snails has increased from VND2,000 to VND30,000 in the past 25 years.

The broth here has very specific flavor. Diners can choose large or small snails depending on their tastes. The restaurant is open from 7am to 12pm.

Another perfect choice for breakfast is bun rieu (noodle and crab soup) in Phat Loc Alley. The restaurant is next to Tien Ha Temple. Mr. Thanh, the owner, is very proud of his secret formula for the broth.

The price for a bowl of noodle here is only VND7,000. Diners can order tofu, beef or pork-pie and the price for such a bowl is VND20,000 ($0.90). The restaurant usually opens from 5am to 10am.

sidewalk restaurants, Hanoi, food, cusines, noodles

Also located in the small alley of Phat Loc is a bun cha (noodle and grilled pork) restaurant, which has been open for 30 years.

The price is from VND35,000 to VND50,000 ($1.20-2.40) per person. The restaurant opens from 11am to 2pm.

The shop selling noodle with crab soup at 32 Mai Hac De opened in the late 80's. Today it serves diners from 7am to 9am.

The price for a full bowl is VND30,000 ($1.40).

In the late afternoon, you can taste pho (Vietnamese noodle) from a vendor on Hang Trong Street.

This “shop” sells only one kind of noodle – beef noodle.

The shop opens from 4pm to 7pm and the price is VND25,000/bowl.

ACTIVETRAVEL ASIA would like to recommend Discover Cultural Village in outskirt of Hanoi by bike tour.A genuine local experience in the intermingling of traditional and modern life brought to you by the Responsible Travel Club of Vietnam in partnership with local families in Dong Ngac Ancient Village. Visit the village’s ancient structures and slip into the local routine, going to market and lending your hosts a hand in preparing a delicious Vietnamese lunch. Moving by foot or bicycle around the village and through nearby flower fields helps minimize our local impact.

Highlights: 

• Browse local market
• Bicycle around village
• Visiting ancestral houses and its keepers
• Local interaction
• Farming experience with the farmers